The End of the Journey

The view from the Hotel was spectacular and we were situated below a little castle and along the train tracks, which was not visible at night.

The final day started with another hearty breakfast of eggs, sausage, cheese and jelly along with plenty of coffee. The discussion turned to how to spend the last day - the Rhine or a visit to the Nurburgring to see some racing and the Nurburgring won! We left the hotel and head back to the Nurburgring encountering lots of bikes and cars along the way.

The entrance was lined with cars ready to run the Ring - the current version for tourists is 23 km with its 173 turns and is open to anyone to take a spin on. The cost is E40 for 1.5 laps and if there is a recession it was not evident at the entrance for the vehicles were a sight to behold.

We decided to take a view of the folks running the Ring - it is called the Green Hell - for while it is nestled in beautiful countryside many of the course turns are blind or over a hill. By the time one finishes a lap, the memory of the turns is gone and it is like a new lap. As we watched the cars and motorcycles go flying by, it quickly became apparent who knew the course and who was a novice. The drives who knew the course had the line to take and kept to it, knew where the best traction was. We saw one car almost spin and the driver kept control and every imaginable vehicle was to be seen - most were set up for racing. As we watched we decided our Harley's were likely not the best rides for the Ring and I did begin thinking about a BMW racer and what fun it would be to learn the Ring and then ride it. JJ became giddy as a little boy watching the cars and bikes go by - we decided a car would be the best vehicle the first few times out - my GTI would love it!

As I watched the action, I knew The Ring will be driven by me at some point in the not to distant future - it just looked like to much fun. Just like in real racing, an accident occured and the Ring was shut down while a wrecker, ambulance and track cleaner headed for the site - a good reminder that it will take practices and patience. With the track closed we headed for the bikes for it was time to hit the road - the gas station was filled with not your normal collection of cars getting gas.

For the last couple of hours back it was only natural we took the autobahn, seeing we had just been to the Nurburgring - an easy cruise of 150 km along with a little lane splitting made the time fly. The countryside looked peaceful and the sun was bright - we rolled along on our way to Holland.

We crossed the Rhine and I realized afterwards that I had used up my camera memory, so the pictures from the remainder of the trip and limited to the one below. The Rhine was majestic and filled with weekend activity - traffic was relatively light. We did manage to push our speed to 160 km for a stretch and it was about the peak of my comfort zone and my Road King was happy with that.

The end of the trip came at an Aral gas station just out side of Holland - as Robbert and JJ would be heading in a different direction and we would return to Eagle Rider. We said our good-byes and I know it will not be the last time we five ride together - it was no accident we came together for this trip. Robbert and JJ made the trip an experience for us and added so much - we are very grateful to them. Robbert program the Garmin for Stuart to take the lead which he did, even putting on the yellow vest.

As we headed toward Haaksbergen, it was odd not to see Robbert in the lead and JJ taking the occassional sprint - we rolled the last 55 km through the countryside recognizing several placed from a week earlier when we started our journey. We arrived at Eagle Rider (www.eagleriderholland.com) and were met by Andre and Harry - our goal was 16.00 and we were within 30 minutes. We unloaded the bikes and shared our experience with them - thanking Harry for his route. We thanked Andre and Harry for all they did, they made the rental process so easy, took us to and from the train and were open to us returning the bikes on a Sunday afernoon. We headed to the train for the ride back to Amsterdam and Harry informed us they rent BMW's also - the Ring entered my mind :-). We rode 3,061 km in seven days - awesome.

On the trip back to Amsterdam, there were a couple of brief naps and we each reflected on our journey - it was truly an Appreciative Journey!

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Day 7 - A Leisure Ride through the German Countryside

The morning finds us waking to sunshine and blue skies, like every morning on this trip. We prepare for a hearty German breakfast and consume it with joy - hard boiled eggs, cold cuts, cheese, rolls, jelly and Nutella plus OJ and lots of coffee. It reminds me of the breakfast I have with my Aunt and Uncle, Helma and Peter, a great way to start the day. JJ prepares to bring his bike to the garage for some repair work and we will get a later start today - giving us time to chat and drink more coffee :-).

We pick up JJ's bike which has been taped and added a few items for the ride home. We head north toward Koblenz through the Black Forest.

The road weaves through the countryside and it is a less taxing ride then up or down the St. Bernard Pass while being equally as enjoyable. As we weave through the villages, we are greeted by Saturday afternoon relaxation with lots of bicycling, walkers and families playing. In most communities stores are closed by 13.00 except those catering to tourists and the tour buses of which there are plenty. Some villages have streets blocked off for a festival or local event. As we ride through the Black Forest, we entered small forests which are cooler and the trees are very dense - regardless the roads are in great condition which makes for fun riding. We entered the Alsace region and trade in vineyards and fruit farms for corn fields and the occasional sunflower field - not much else changes though.

At times, the road is lined with trees creating the feel of a tunnel while at other times it is wide open. The ever popular round-about returns. We learn later that if there was not a round-about, a stop light or four-way stop would be required which would slow trafic and lead to more accidents - I learned to like the round-about plus it gave me the opportunity to practice my turns.

We continued north, re-entered Germany passed several Gasthauses filled with folks relaxing on a Saturday afternoon having cake and coffee. As the afternoon rolls on we opt to take the autobahn to speed our travel time - this will be fun. We enter the autobahn heading to Koblenz and soon find ourself on a stretch of no speed limit. Riding at an average of 150 km (93 mph) takes a new level of concentration and a realization, the margin for error just got smaller. Our Harley's were not designed for this speed and at 160 km started bouncing and were being strected - our riding parts touring bikes were just getting warmed up. While some cars flew by us, we managed to pass plenty ourselves. As we buzzed along, we entered the Mosel Valley, which was beautiful and had tons of vineyards stretch up into the countryside from the Mosel. While I had been practicing taking pictures from the bike - taking pictures at 140 km was a new challenge and it was a good thing the camera was around my neck for otherwise I would be needing a new camera.

We left the autobahn and headed for Althena and the Hotel am Tunnel - a motorcycle hotel and our destination for the night. We rode through the countryside encounering many performance cars and lots of motorcycles. The reason was that we were nearing the Nuremberg Ring which was a 28 km racetrack with a 173 turns - Formula One racing was held there along with many other types of racing including motorcycles. Several of the towns we rode through had castles on mountain tops overlooking the towns below.

Our evening accomodations were great with food waiting for us and we grilled our meal to our desired tastes. There was secure parking for our bikes something I had come to appreciate on the trip - not having to think about the bikes at night knowing they were locked up. Our accomodations were rustic and we shared a room with two bunk beds - Stuart got the top and did not fall off.

The food was fabulous and I had my fill of weisswurst and pork - the menu was self designed and we could eat to our heart's content. The meal was ended with several cups of coffee and sharing of videos from crazy bike stunts. It was hard to believe this was our last night of the trip - we had seen so much an it felt like just yesterday we started. New friendships had been formed and exisitng ones strengthened - I am very appreciative of all Robbert and JJ did to make this trip a memorable exprience - they are incredible!

While I was not the only one who enjoyed the evening meal, Jim loaded up not wanting to miss a thing.

Tomorrow will be a short day back to Amsterdam and as I drift to sleep I am grateful for an incredible trip and that all are safe.

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Day 6 - The Journey becomes an Adventure

The day began with a stroll to a corner cafe - best coffee in Torino - after three cups along with a chocolate croissant and bread - I agree. It was nice to sit and enjoy excellent coffee and watch the market across the street come to life. We were give the house special of coffee and crushed ice with a little whiskey - I passed and JJ said it was tasty. We walked through the market and I bought two Mediterranean figs for the road. As we left Torino, I was reminded how ell space is used as balconies served as dryers, kitchens an extra rooms. We headed north from Torino on the A5.

As we rolled north, the view from the bike changed and following a quick gas stop we were ready to make some time. The plan was to stay on the autobahn for the first part of the trip and then switch to ride the passes. As we approached the mountains - we saw snow and to think 24 hours earlier I was on the beach. The road north was dotted with older buildings and small villages - some had been around a long time and others looked new - the combination worked well and had the same effect as the housing further south. The houses fit into the landscape and became part of it. We saw several fortresses on the mountain peaks and I was reminded of Lord of the Ring. In addition, we saw many vineries that were built into the mountains creating a stair step effect high into the mountains - a picturesque sight.

We stopped before heading to the passes to finalize our travels to review the roads we would take. The rest area had a full restaurant and the food looked amazing while the chocolate canoli was excellent. Many restaurants would be envious of the fare prepared here including the coffee. Our crack travel team reviewed the roads ahead and JJ was getting excited - speed and turns - it was about to get fun.

As we got of the road and began heading for the St. Bernard pass. The road to the pass began with a tunnel that was 4725m long or just nder three miles and it was followed by another tunnel 2075m - as we were riding through the tunnels they seemend flat and when we emerged, we had climbed substantially. We met many other motorcycle riders on the way up the pass and most impressive was the bicycle riders both on the way down and up - heading down they were flying at speeds greater than 40 km/h. The climb continued and we soon found ourselves on an avalache protected road heading to the St. Bernard tunnel - we decided not to take the tunnel and turn around opting to take the pass over the mountain rather than through it. JJ received permission from the Swiss border patrol for us to turn and head back.

As we prepared to head up the pass, JJ stopped us and gave us instructions for the ride - look ahead and not at the road - for where you look is where you will - we where grateful for the reminder and it prepared us well for the ride ahead. The climb was spectacular and challenging - tight switch back turns along with a combination of quick left, right turns - there were very few straight aways. I learned that my right eye was dominant as the left turn switchbacks were easy and the right turn ones challenged me - the first two I crossed the center line and was grateful for no on coming traffic. The view up the pass was breath taking and it was hard to keep my eyes on the road - I knew I had better. JJ was in heaven and tok full advantage of the turns and would meet us at the top.

The air had become cooler, I was glad for my jacket, and the wind picked up - the air was crisp and the sun was bright - a perfect day to ride the pass. The consisten turns and increasing elevation required concentration and after awhile a rythem developed - I was very appreciative we had taken the pass. Along the way, I saw huge waterfalls coming off the mountains and we had seen several along the way. When we go to the top, I realized I had been here 40 years earlier on a vacation with my family - we did a three week driving vacation through Europe and had gone ove the St. Bernard pass - it was a happy memory. There were lots of people at the top of the pass and it is also the border with Switzerland which was not a part of the EU which one would not know as passport requests were limited. St. Bernard's were raised here years ago and used for search dogs to find climbers lost or trapped by avalanches - not sure that is still the case. There were several places to stay and it looked like some great hiking.

We were now in Switzerland and prepared to head down the pass toward Lake Geneva - thefirst thing I noticed heading down the pass was there were no guard rails on the Swiss side only reflective markers. This added a whole new dimension to the ride down and made corners were interesting. JJ had reminded us to look into the turns and I soon learned why as Robbert met a tour bus in a turn - his experience and quich reaction allowed him to put his bike down safely and with no injuries to him - we were ready to move on. It was a scary site to see as I came around the corner for I saw the top of the bus first.

As we rolled down the pass, Robbert led the way with JJ taking short spurts ahead to relish the turns - the scenery was as breath taking heading into Switzerland as it was leaving Italy. I appreciated the opportunity to be here and realized that each brought a new and spectacular experience with each being unique and special. The ride into the valley also brought warmer temperature and familiar housing.

At the bottom we paused briefly to check in and rejoice in the experience of riding the St. Bernard Pass. Now it was on to Lake Geneva and our evening accomodations.

The ride into Switzerland brought us to the autobahn and it was nice to be able to open up and let the bikes run and run we did- 150 km for healthy periods of time which was loads of fun. It was great to have cars move for you and we took full advantage of this. The tunnels and bridges returned although not as lengthy as in the past and at one point we emerged to see Lake Geneva on the left - it was splendid! The lake was huge and I was not able to see the other side - I was struck by its size and the houses along the shore.

We stopped for gas and a well deserved rest which included coffee, water, and fresh pasteries along with a mediterrean fig which proved to be rather tasty. JJ informed us that the Swiss frown on speeding with the fines a percentage of the offenders income - we made the decision instantly to follow the speed limit. Behind the gas station was a beautiful lake which had sailboats and wind surfers on it. It is wonderul to the such pristine scenery and the respect the citizens have for it. We got back on the road and head for our accomodations - we quickly encountered a traffic jam and learned the finer art of lane splitting for the next 50 km before leaving that autobahn and entering into Germany. Lane splitting was taxing for it required awareness even though cars moved for us and opened a path - drivers noticed us and were courteous. We spent a brief time on the German autobahn and then headed into the countryside with our goal being Landhaus zur Badischen Weinstrasse in Ballrechten-Dottingen.

As we rolled through the countryside and the small towns, we passed fruit farms and hay fields while enjoying the twists and turns of the country roads. The towns we passed through were mostly quiet except for the occasional Gasthaus which had dinner guests and traffic was sparse. We traveled a rolling countryside dotted with the occasional woods and plenty of turns to spark JJ's enthusiasm. As I came around a turn, I saw JJ up in the grass off his bike - he did not make the turn and was and is OK. He had laid into the turn and something caught his wheel - it was either go up into the grass or go down on the road - the grass won. In a split second he processed all relevant information and made a call - a testament to his riding skills. The bike had damage and its rider a few bruises - both rode away to the hotel.

We arrived at the Landhaus (www.landhaus-zur-badischen-weinstrasse.de) and Claus-Peter greeted us - the accomodations were incredible - the host and hostess were phenomenal. The accommodations were second to none and it was nice to be in a 'home' atmosphere. While we went to Gasthaus Engel for dinner, JJ and Claus-Peter went to the hospital to have JJ looked at - the doctor pronounced him well with a few bruises. He joined us for a dinner of schitzel, deer stew and pepper steak - a good German meal to top of the day.

We went back to the Landhaus for some refreshment and reflected on the day. It was a first for me to have two riders go down in one day and am grateful both were safe! Our appreciative journey became an adventure and turned out well!

Saturday it is on to Koblenz!

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Day 5 - The Riviera - French and Italian

As the sun rose and Cannes and the air became warmer - we knew we were in for an awesome day. The sky was blue and there was not a cloud in the sky - we made out way to breakfast on the fifth floor which gave us a beautiful view of Cannes. We were impressed by the aritechture of the building along with the efficient space utilization - the run off from the plants on the top flor dripped on the plants two floors below - very little wasted effort. The bay were the beach was looked calm and a few boats were moving - the city was slowly waking up. Below is a view from our room and the breakfast area.

We packed the bikes and headed for Nice and the Harley Dealership - it was already 28C. We entered unto the 8A, which would prove to be one of the best highways I have ever traveled. The road went up into the mountains and we rode a long a ridge with the city left below and small knooks of houses dotted the countryside. Repeadly, I was struck with how well the houses complimented the countryside and were one with the landscape and in harmony with it. It was obvious these structures had been around a long time and had withstood the test of time. We arrived in Nice and headed for the Harley Dealership which we had little difficulty in finding - it was small by US standards and the bikes lined the street. Folks rode up to visit and chat or pick up their bikes from service. I bought the T-shirt and we looked for a cup of coffee and water.

We found a square and made ourselves at home - ordering coffee and two large bottles of water - we are finding that hydration is important better said it is essential. We sat and relaxed, taking in the scenery and planning our next trip :-). The square was busy and people were heading to lunch or work - the pace was measured. We had one more stop - exchanging dollars - before heading out of town. As we drove through Nice, we encountered several interesting sites.

The square were we sat, had an old building serving as an anchor and we saw many of these buildings in the towns we traveled through - not all as ornate and stately nonetheless. When we were leaving Nice, the water was crystal blue and inviting - I will be back without a doubt. When and if I ever retire - I believe I have found my spot - I understand now what attracts people to the region.

Having completed our tasks we head back to the A8 and our journey for the day to Torino, Italy. The A8 winds itself along the Riviera both French and Italian - it is an awesome road, which invites viewing the scenery at the risk of becoming the scenery. We climbed further and the countryside was dotted with houses and small clusters of houses. The scenery drew your eyes and it required concentration to stay focused on the road which was a real pleasure to ride - we cruised at 110 km.

The road turned into a series of tunnels and bridges which connected the various ridges and allowed for the road to be a part of the landscape rather than defining it or beinging an eye sore. As we rode along, the landscape was spectacular and we rode through Monaco before stopping for gas, which turned into an adventure as the awning over the pumps triggered Stuart's security system on the bike and disabled his bike. The high pitch sound attracked the attention of several people and we attempted to help - all to no avail - while the staff was getting frantic as we had not all paid and it slowed the flow of cars through the pumps. We contacted Eagle Rider who contatced Harley and we learned the code to reset the system and it did not work, at which point the attendant came out and informed us that the awning had an electric current and we needed to move the bikes at least 100 meters away. We followed his advice and prolem solved - bike started; Jim's bike was next to get hit with the electric charge and he had to reset his bike before we could leave. In celebration Stuart bought himself a pair of shades - we were off.

The gas station had a spectacular view of Monaco and we enjoyed it.

As we rode along the A8, I came to appreciate it ever more, as the tunnels and bridges became more intricate and longer. We entered Italy, our fifth country on this trip, and while the view did not change much it did remind me of the beauty of nature well taken care of by its inhabitants.

As we rode along, Stuart and I fell back from the others to take in the scenery - not sure when we'd be back. Along the ride we had Bentley's, Maserati's and Ferrari's pass us - we were happy to yield the rode space. We rode along and met many smiling faces in the cars that passed us and that we passed.

The longests tunnel we went through was 1669m while the longest bridge was 2674m. As we rode along the Italia Riviera, the traffic became a tad heavier and I was sure to pay attention to the roads as the Italian drivers liked to squeeze into and through small spaces. The tunnels proved to be a welcome relief from the heat as they were cool and the breeze going through cooled one off nicely. The countryside became a collection of red roofs as we rolled along preparing to head north to Torino.

As we turned unto the 6A to Torino the water was left behind and the mountains appeared, while the series of tunnels continued, the vegetation became greener along with a few trees appearing. We noticed a long trolley of coal carts on a suspension cable moving though the countryside. As we stopped for gas, Libyan by some accounts - expensive - Jim's bike problems continued as he had to reset the security system everytime he shut his bike off. We would need to address this in Torino, a fellow rider at the gas station had indicated it might be the battery - we will get a new one. The observation was made that the Italian rodes paled in comparison to Dutch, German and French rodes. We rode into Torino and began looing for the hotel - Robert is a master at finding places and we were once again reminded how enjoyable he had made this trip.

If the French city drivers were rude - as Stuart can attest toas we left Nice and he had a close encounter of a drive wanting to go through him, the Italians were worse. Turn signals were optional and he who got to a spot first got to keep it - it made for interesting riding. We encountered roundabouts which were more like oblong abouts and much wider given the Italians desire to drive two, three or four abreast. We found the hotel - another steal from the accomodation guru - atfter a quick clean up it was off to dinner. After a short walk, we found the recommended restaurant and prepared for a wonderful meal.

Dinner was truly delightful and all Italian - our waiter spoke almost no english and Jim corralled the pizza cook to get his recommendation which we got the house pizza. Dinner consisted of antipasta, salad and pizza along with tons of water - we needed doggie bags. It was good! The waiter even told us where to get batteries for the Harley security system - around the corner from the restaurant - plans were made for the am. While having dinner, Jim raised the hopes of a street vendor only to send him away empty handed - the fan almost got him.

On the walk back to the hotel we stopped for some gelatto - perfect way to end a perfect day! Tomorrow we ride for the Alps and Switzerland!

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