Day 6 - The Journey becomes an Adventure

The day began with a stroll to a corner cafe - best coffee in Torino - after three cups along with a chocolate croissant and bread - I agree. It was nice to sit and enjoy excellent coffee and watch the market across the street come to life. We were give the house special of coffee and crushed ice with a little whiskey - I passed and JJ said it was tasty. We walked through the market and I bought two Mediterranean figs for the road. As we left Torino, I was reminded how ell space is used as balconies served as dryers, kitchens an extra rooms. We headed north from Torino on the A5.

As we rolled north, the view from the bike changed and following a quick gas stop we were ready to make some time. The plan was to stay on the autobahn for the first part of the trip and then switch to ride the passes. As we approached the mountains - we saw snow and to think 24 hours earlier I was on the beach. The road north was dotted with older buildings and small villages - some had been around a long time and others looked new - the combination worked well and had the same effect as the housing further south. The houses fit into the landscape and became part of it. We saw several fortresses on the mountain peaks and I was reminded of Lord of the Ring. In addition, we saw many vineries that were built into the mountains creating a stair step effect high into the mountains - a picturesque sight.

We stopped before heading to the passes to finalize our travels to review the roads we would take. The rest area had a full restaurant and the food looked amazing while the chocolate canoli was excellent. Many restaurants would be envious of the fare prepared here including the coffee. Our crack travel team reviewed the roads ahead and JJ was getting excited - speed and turns - it was about to get fun.

As we got of the road and began heading for the St. Bernard pass. The road to the pass began with a tunnel that was 4725m long or just nder three miles and it was followed by another tunnel 2075m - as we were riding through the tunnels they seemend flat and when we emerged, we had climbed substantially. We met many other motorcycle riders on the way up the pass and most impressive was the bicycle riders both on the way down and up - heading down they were flying at speeds greater than 40 km/h. The climb continued and we soon found ourselves on an avalache protected road heading to the St. Bernard tunnel - we decided not to take the tunnel and turn around opting to take the pass over the mountain rather than through it. JJ received permission from the Swiss border patrol for us to turn and head back.

As we prepared to head up the pass, JJ stopped us and gave us instructions for the ride - look ahead and not at the road - for where you look is where you will - we where grateful for the reminder and it prepared us well for the ride ahead. The climb was spectacular and challenging - tight switch back turns along with a combination of quick left, right turns - there were very few straight aways. I learned that my right eye was dominant as the left turn switchbacks were easy and the right turn ones challenged me - the first two I crossed the center line and was grateful for no on coming traffic. The view up the pass was breath taking and it was hard to keep my eyes on the road - I knew I had better. JJ was in heaven and tok full advantage of the turns and would meet us at the top.

The air had become cooler, I was glad for my jacket, and the wind picked up - the air was crisp and the sun was bright - a perfect day to ride the pass. The consisten turns and increasing elevation required concentration and after awhile a rythem developed - I was very appreciative we had taken the pass. Along the way, I saw huge waterfalls coming off the mountains and we had seen several along the way. When we go to the top, I realized I had been here 40 years earlier on a vacation with my family - we did a three week driving vacation through Europe and had gone ove the St. Bernard pass - it was a happy memory. There were lots of people at the top of the pass and it is also the border with Switzerland which was not a part of the EU which one would not know as passport requests were limited. St. Bernard's were raised here years ago and used for search dogs to find climbers lost or trapped by avalanches - not sure that is still the case. There were several places to stay and it looked like some great hiking.

We were now in Switzerland and prepared to head down the pass toward Lake Geneva - thefirst thing I noticed heading down the pass was there were no guard rails on the Swiss side only reflective markers. This added a whole new dimension to the ride down and made corners were interesting. JJ had reminded us to look into the turns and I soon learned why as Robbert met a tour bus in a turn - his experience and quich reaction allowed him to put his bike down safely and with no injuries to him - we were ready to move on. It was a scary site to see as I came around the corner for I saw the top of the bus first.

As we rolled down the pass, Robbert led the way with JJ taking short spurts ahead to relish the turns - the scenery was as breath taking heading into Switzerland as it was leaving Italy. I appreciated the opportunity to be here and realized that each brought a new and spectacular experience with each being unique and special. The ride into the valley also brought warmer temperature and familiar housing.

At the bottom we paused briefly to check in and rejoice in the experience of riding the St. Bernard Pass. Now it was on to Lake Geneva and our evening accomodations.

The ride into Switzerland brought us to the autobahn and it was nice to be able to open up and let the bikes run and run we did- 150 km for healthy periods of time which was loads of fun. It was great to have cars move for you and we took full advantage of this. The tunnels and bridges returned although not as lengthy as in the past and at one point we emerged to see Lake Geneva on the left - it was splendid! The lake was huge and I was not able to see the other side - I was struck by its size and the houses along the shore.

We stopped for gas and a well deserved rest which included coffee, water, and fresh pasteries along with a mediterrean fig which proved to be rather tasty. JJ informed us that the Swiss frown on speeding with the fines a percentage of the offenders income - we made the decision instantly to follow the speed limit. Behind the gas station was a beautiful lake which had sailboats and wind surfers on it. It is wonderul to the such pristine scenery and the respect the citizens have for it. We got back on the road and head for our accomodations - we quickly encountered a traffic jam and learned the finer art of lane splitting for the next 50 km before leaving that autobahn and entering into Germany. Lane splitting was taxing for it required awareness even though cars moved for us and opened a path - drivers noticed us and were courteous. We spent a brief time on the German autobahn and then headed into the countryside with our goal being Landhaus zur Badischen Weinstrasse in Ballrechten-Dottingen.

As we rolled through the countryside and the small towns, we passed fruit farms and hay fields while enjoying the twists and turns of the country roads. The towns we passed through were mostly quiet except for the occasional Gasthaus which had dinner guests and traffic was sparse. We traveled a rolling countryside dotted with the occasional woods and plenty of turns to spark JJ's enthusiasm. As I came around a turn, I saw JJ up in the grass off his bike - he did not make the turn and was and is OK. He had laid into the turn and something caught his wheel - it was either go up into the grass or go down on the road - the grass won. In a split second he processed all relevant information and made a call - a testament to his riding skills. The bike had damage and its rider a few bruises - both rode away to the hotel.

We arrived at the Landhaus (www.landhaus-zur-badischen-weinstrasse.de) and Claus-Peter greeted us - the accomodations were incredible - the host and hostess were phenomenal. The accommodations were second to none and it was nice to be in a 'home' atmosphere. While we went to Gasthaus Engel for dinner, JJ and Claus-Peter went to the hospital to have JJ looked at - the doctor pronounced him well with a few bruises. He joined us for a dinner of schitzel, deer stew and pepper steak - a good German meal to top of the day.

We went back to the Landhaus for some refreshment and reflected on the day. It was a first for me to have two riders go down in one day and am grateful both were safe! Our appreciative journey became an adventure and turned out well!

Saturday it is on to Koblenz!

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